Las Vegas, Nevada, United States

Hi everyone,

Hope you’re ok and all’s well. It’s been such a busy week and so much has been happening. I travelled to New York again from Washington on March 13 and arrived slap bang in the middle if an horrific thunderstorm. The winds were raging and the rain coming down in torrents, so when the Greyhound dispatched me in the middle of Times Square I had to battle the elements to find the nearest subway and get to my little hostel on the upper east side. Needless to say when I arrived I, and both my bags, were sodden through and I was desperate for some home comforts so I dropped my things and headed for the nearest Starbucks where I bought the biggest slice of chocolate cake and mug of tea I’ve ever seen. It was bliss.

Later that evening I decided to extend my indulgences a little further and treated myself to a big fat copy of Cosmo and a pot of the pinkest, bubble gum-est nail varnish I could find before allowing myself an evening of cosy pampering while the storm raged outside. I know that’s probably hardly the done thing for the average grisled backpacker but I didn’t care at – all I wanted was something to perk me up a bit and make me feel a bit pretty and less bedraggled.

The storm died down the next day, though not without first claiming some casualties sadly. According to the Daily News six people died, power was cut off in certain parts of the city, trains were de-railed and, unbelievably, it generated more calls to the emergency services than 9/11. It was lucky I’d chosen to travel by Greyhound as the Amtrak train travelling from Washington that day (the exact one I would have been on) came off its tracks and was stranded in New Jersey for five hours.

In the sunny days that followed I busied myself with seeing and doing all the things I missed out on when I was in New York just a few weeks ago. I went to the American Museum of Natural History, caught the Staten Island Ferry on a beautifully sunny afternoon, visited the New York Stock Exchange on Wall Street, Ground Zero, the Flatron, Empire State and Chrysler buildings and took another wander through Grand Central Station. The crowning glory, however, was a trip to the top of ‘the rock’ (the Rockerfeller Center) at sunset. It came recommended as a much better way to see the city from above than from the Empire State, not only because of its position further uptown but also because it lets you actually see the Empire State building – which no view of Manhattan is complete without. It didn’t disappoint either, the sunset was perfect and watching the city slowly change from day to night was an experience I’ll never forget.

The next day I left New York early and hopped on a plane to Las Vegas. My original plan had been to travel down south and visit New Orleans and Miami but, in the course of my planning, it seems I hadn’t quite reckoned on just how vast this amazing country is and,, according to the Greyhound schedules it would have taken me almost two days to get from New York to Miami. As much as I was desperate to go there I figured that a two-day bus journey, in an already tight schedule, would be a bit much and turn the rest of my destinations in to two or three day pit stops. Plus, all the news channels were warning of bad thunderstorms hitting Florida and the south just as I would have been getting there so, having already had my fill of rain and dismal skies, I decided to head West and straight for the sunshine. I will definitely get to Miami and New Orleans one day – but next time I’ll make sure I go with planty of time to spare and not plan my visit for the rainy season.

It took almost eight hours to fly across the Las Vegas (with a change at Burbank, California in between) but, my God, it was worth it. I stepped off the plane in to heat – actual heat! – and my eyes took a few moments to adjust to the glaring sunlight. The warmth of the sun on my skin felt incredible and, for he first time, I suddenly felt like I was on a proper holiday. Exhausted from my trip I hopped in a cab and, in the distance, could just spot the MGM Grand and the magnificent Luxor (pyramid hotel) rising from the desert – my heart leapt in excitement.

It turned out my hostel is not far away from Las Vegas Boulevard – aka ‘the strip’ at all, about ten minutes by car, and right by a bus stop that takes your straight to the bright lights. It’s a kind of bed-and-breakfast arrangement within the home of a lovely couple, Jess and Antonio, and their two adorable fourteen-month-old twins. The big, big plus of the place, aside from its location, is that has a stunning, sprawling pool – something I’ve been desperately hankering after these last few weeks.

Words cannot adequately describe Las Vegas. I’ve been trying to think how best to write about it these last few days and have pretty much drawn a blank, other than to say that it’s absolutely bloody incredible. If you ever, ever get chance to come here you must – it really is like nowhere else on earth. Let me try and explain why.

The next day the, little bus dropped me off outside Caesar’s Palace which is flanked by two equally famous hotel/casinos -The Bellagio and The Flamingo.They’re towards the top of the strip and herald the beginning of what must surely be one of the biggest spectacles on earth. The hotels tower abouve you and are a riot of colour, light and shimmer – I felt like Alice in an over-sized, glittering Wonderland. The closest I can liken in to is the memory I have of being in Disneyworld when I was little – which is rather apt really because that’s exactly what this place is like, a Disneyworld for adults who just want to party, spend money and get up to very, very bad things.

Most astonishingly of all is the fact that here in Vegas alcohol is free. Yep, that’s right, alcochol in all its forms – be it beer, wine, cocktails, shorts – is all free, simply because the hotels and casions just want you to lose yourself and spend all your money. So they facilitate that in the easiest way possible – by pouring unlimited quantities of booze down your neck. The only catch in this is that you have to be gambling in order to get the drinks, but that could mean spending just a dollar in the 1c machines. As long as you are in the casions and spending money, no matter how small, you’ll be constantly replenished with as many weird and wonderful drinks as your heart desires.

Also it’s perfectly acceptable to drink on the streets here so wandering down the strip at 11am (as I was) you can expect to see rather a few intoxicated souls and people walking around with beer bottles or foot-long jugs of Margheritas. This is Las Vegas, after all, where its apparently mandatory to check reality in at the door when you arrive.

For the rest of the day I wandered round the casinos at the top end of town – Caesar’s, The Bellagio, The Flamingo, Wynn’s, The Venetian and Treasure Island and I spent the whole day constantly having to pick my jaw up from the floor and push my eyeballs back in to their sockets. The way the hotels are designed and landscaped is spectacular – it is decadance and opulence on a grand scale and no expense is spared. That said, aside from the hundreds of gaming tables and one-armed bandits that are in every lobby, the effect is nothing short of glorious. Some of the hotels are unbelievably beautiful and I was actually moved to tears by one display in The Bellagio where a huge atrium had been constructed and filled with a field-size display of fresh flowers in every colour, ancient, towering olive trees and water features that defied gravity and logic. It was the most magical feast for the senses and I can honestly say I have never seen anything like it before. Another hotel, The Venetian, has created a scaled-down Version of Venice complete with canals, gondolas and St Mark’s Square – tacky – perhaps, excessive – certainly, but nonetheless absolutely, wonderfully extraordinary.

As the evening drew in I sat and watched the famed light display outside The Bellagio (the same one watched by Brad, George and their gang at the end of Ocean’s Eleven) and, again, it was outrageously beautiful. The jets of water shoot higher than the hotels and dance together elegantly to music, as though part of a perfectly-choreographed ballet.

And this is just a small of what Vegas has to offer. Tonight I’m going to see it by night which will be another eyes-on-stalks experience I imagine, especially as I’m hoping to go up to the top of The Stratosphere which is a giant tower that presides over the town and which affords stunning views of it, so I’m told. There’s also a roller coaster right at the topt, though I think I’ll be leaving that to the real thrill-seekers.

The day after I took an organised tour to the Grand Canyon which was a long way away (five hours there and back) but again, absolutely worth it. It’s astonishing and, strangely, because of its size your brain can’t comprehend the perspective or depth, it almost looks like a painting or perfectly-drawn 2-D backdrop. I walked along the rim for about two hours and my little camera got such a battering, though I’m quite sure it wasn’t able to capture or convey the sheer dimension of what I was looking at. Even when I was there I couldn’t quite believe I was, it was surreal, and yet for something so big it is oddly peaceful. It’s rugged beauty was in stark contrast to the man-made one of Vegas and served as a powerful reminder of just how formidable, and perfect, nature can be.

Today I have decided to allow myself a day of leisure and have spent most of it sat next to the hostels lovely, azure pool, basking in the sun which has been tempered by the most welcome breeze. I’m off now to get ready for my night on the strip and am hoping to catch a show if I can – what with Cher, Matt Goss, Barry Manilow and Donny and Marie Osmond all currently playing here I’m completely spoilt for choice. I might have to throw their names in to a (spangly) hat and see which comes out first.

Hope you’re all ok, safe and happy. Miss you all so much, will write again soon.

Lots and lots of love,

Soph x

Via | TravelPod

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